The Coconut Road

View from the kitchen sink.




Thursday, October 27, 2011

One 10K Turkey, Hold the Head Please!

Halloween hasn't even rounded the bend yet and already our plans for Thanksgiving are in full swing. They have to be. Gone are the days of center aisles filled with all the popular holiday favorites-Campbells cream of mushroom soup, Durkee fried onions, Pepperidge Farm breadcrumbs, Oceanspray cranberry sauce, canned yams, kraft marshmallows...I could go on and on.

Instead, my girlfriend and I made our list from the menu we devised and almost everything will come from the street market on the morning of Thanksgiving. The market will be operating as normal because here in Brazil, November 24th is just an ordinary Spring day.

We debated celebrating on Saturday instead, but decided that we deserved to have as normal of a Thanksgiving as possible. Both the hubbies have to take a vacation day, we have to pull the kids from school, and crazy of all, we have to arrange the "killing" of our Thanksgiving Tom.

No pardon from the President here. We have delivered the fate for some poor bird to satisfy our need for normalcy. After a long conversation with our "meat guys (and girl)", they will be bringing us a turkey on November 24th. We determined the size in kilos and begged to have it plucked, beheaded, gutted, and the feet amputated. If you don't ask for these things here, you could very well end up with a freshly killed turkey ready for the taxidermist instead.

We're fairly confident the turkey will show up as ordered and they'll leave the head and feet behind, unlike the whole chicken I purchased today. As much as I hate taking out those little packets of giblets in the US, I really hate removing the entire head and clawed feet here in Brazil. Thankfully my maid is happy to take them home to make a soup.

We're trying our best to make it feel like the real deal here, but we won't have a few of my favorites, like sweet potatoes and cranberry sauce, as neither are available here at anytime of the year. Lucky for us, there is a type of pumpkin and my friend Jennifer loves to make pies, so we'll have that favorite for sure (although the pumpkin needs to be cooked and then pureed).

Regardless, I'm looking forward to spending the day in the kitchen with someone I love, hearing the guys yell about football, and the chatter of the kids as they run around the house (which is really an apartment). I'll miss my family, our annual traditions, the old recipes, and the chill in the air.

This year, I have so much to be thankful for (which will be a future post), but today I'm thankful for the friends that make my family here, being forced to make a meal entirely from scratch, and knowing that the Lion's may have a chance to actually win.

Monday, October 24, 2011

A Dog's Life

This was in a restaurant in Paraty. This dog followed us on our hike too.
These pups are at a restaurant on the beach in Gauruja after it closed for the day. I think they had the lunch scraps.


On any given day, I can look out my window and see a dog (or 20). Some are being walked on a leash by the "maid", some are in a large dog bouquet being walked by a service, and some are actually being exercised by their owners. And then there are many that are just wandering around freely, sniffing and marking as they go. They're loose, they're stray, and they're everywhere. The Dog Catcher would be working overtime for sure.

Strangely enough, these dogs don't seem to bother anyone. They don't bother me. My petless kids think it's great that there are random dogs to play with. They hang out at the beach, at outdoor restaurants, and neighborhood parks. People pet them, feed them, and generally just let them be. I've never witnessed anyone kick at them, poke them or treat them unkindly in any way. In fact, many people feed them from their plates. Could this explain their non-agressive nature and general acceptance on the street? When in Buenos Aires, we even saw a homeless man, sitting on the curb, while three dogs slept on his mattress with their food bowls all lined up in a row. I guarantee those dogs got a meal before he did.

Do I think it's right for dogs to inhabit the landscape like squirrels and birds? No, but I think that human beings are responsible for the problem in the first place and that treating these living creatures with kindness has at least kept a pack of vicious dogs from running the streets. These dogs seem happy and content. And none of them are tied to a tree barking their heads off. Until I see differently, I'm happy and content to let them live a dog's life, sleeping, running, and looking for that next bone.

Friday, October 21, 2011

Chaotic Roganization

I just returned from my weekly Friday lunch with the fabulous gals of Sao Paulo and as I'm feeling very rejuvenated by their presence in my life, there's no better time to devote to updating this forlorn blog of mine.

"Why don't I blog more?" I often ask myself. I always have a lot of "material" so to speak, but as time passes by, it starts to feel outdated and not worth talking about. Sometimes the topics just don't have any weight to them. Who wants to read about the difficulty I have buying bread every week? Probably not many. It's this constant struggle I have with myself about wanting everything in my life to have a beginning, a middle, and an end, even the stories I put on my blog. It stopped me writing in the past and it's stalled me once again. So going forward, I'll be writing about random happenings in my days....for me. Things may not make sense, have a message, or even a definitive subject. But guess what? That's how I roll these days.

And yes, I know there's no such word as roganization, but that's how it typed out and I like it, so it's staying. I've decided it's like rogue organization, whatever that is.

Back to life- the kid's were out of school for a week and "lucky us" got to tag along with David on a trip to Buenos Aires. Let's just scream "I LOVE THAT CITY". There aren't many places I visit that I can actually see myself living in. I'd move there tomorrow if it was possible. The architecture (everywhere, on almost every building), the vibe, the food, the people, the climate- I felt at home with it all. We even visited a local hospital, and although antiquated and crowded, provided tender loving care to Camryn's ear infection in a very timely and affordable manner.

We spent 10 days riding in taxi's, eating like king's, exploring the city, and walking a lot. After this trip, David and I both agree, that life in a big city could really work for our family, especially one where we felt safe. One little funny/bad thing happenend, but we look at it as a lesson learned. One night after dinner, we flagged a taxi down, hopped in and tried to get back to our hotel through a parade route. As the meter ticked, we finally gave up and got out on a dark side street and walked the rest of the way, even dancing through the parade to get to the other side of the street. At the airport on the return trip, David went to pay for something, and the cashier wouldn't take his $50 pesos. It was counterfeit! She showed David all the ways it was clearly faked and David knew right away who it came from-our late night taxi driver. When David went to pay the fare with a fifty, he took out his bank roll, which had a $100. The driver said the $50 had a tear ( a very small tear) and refused it, forcing David to pay with the $100. The driver sweetly gave David a crisp, fresh off the copier, $50 in change. Oh well. At least it was in pesos and not dollars.

Something else happened while in Buenos Aires that was a little shocking. Instead of reverting to English when we weren't sure what to say in Spanish, we instead blurted out Portuguese. I was so confused why I wasn't trying to use English as my default language, when it's actually understood by most people in Argentina. This is actually a linguistic term called "inhibition" where your language centers have reorganized themselves and now your first language is pushed under your second language. Even the kids were doing it. We were translating all Spanish into Portuguese, and then into English. It really was comical to hear us all stumbling around to finally push out our native language. We usually thanked someone three times...Obrigada (Portuguese), thank-you, then finally Gracias. We were a mess, but it kept us all laughing.

Which brings me to my bread story and a little lesson in linguitics. The word for bread is pao with a tilde above the "a". It's pronounced "pown", and said through your nose, not your mouth. As you can see, there is no "n" on the end, and even in pronunciation it's very quick , just a touch of the tongue to the roof of your mouth. In Brazil, most bread is bought from the bakery and bagged just for you. I've been buying bread from my grocery store for a few months and the same young guy is usually working, and he always seems a second away from cracking up when I order my six large breads. So much so, that I knew I was saying something wrong, but what? I decided to change the word pao to baguette...not so much laughter. I finally got around to talking to a Brazilian friend about the words I use that never seem to be understood. When I told her about pao, she got that same silly grin and proceeded to tell me, that without that obvious nasal sound, I had been ordering six large penises (well actually "dicks") from the bakery every week. No wonder the poor kid could hardly contain himself. Ultimately, I now avoid the word for bread at all costs and my family is eating baguettes these days.

We're off to our beach place this weekend and the weather looks good for boogie boarding and sunning. When it was Spring in the States, it was tough for me watching the Southern hemisphere shift into Fall. So I guess right now it's pay back time. Spring is in full swing and Summer is around the corner. We're packing up our boots and sweaters, dusting off our Havianas, and waiting for the rains to come (about the same time the snow flies "Up North"). Stay tuned to hear about how we celebrate Halloween South of the equator. Would you believe we have more parties to go to here we did in Auburn? Including trick or treating on an elevator. Who needs a golf cart or a hay wagon?